Sunday, August 29, 2010
We'll do the one on the right first:
Using a 3/8" spindle gouge I round over the outside edge and the front face (facing the tailstock)
In use the backer plate is simply screwed onto the woodworm screw. By changing the hole that is used the backer plate the pendant can be moved off center
On this style pendant eyeball where I want the pendant to be and affix it with double sided tape. I found Duck brand double sided tape from Wal-Mart to work pretty well and at a reasonable price (~$5).
I will also do a quick sanding with 220 and 320 grit paper at this point.
For this style I choose to remove the piece from the jig, apply a new piece of tape, and put it back in place on a different center; eyeballing where I want it to be. I often choose to place the stone where it overlaps the opening I turned on the last step. I stop and check the fit often. Each stone (or shell) is unique and may be a slightly different size than the rest.
The piece is removed from the lathe, some hand sanding is done on all of the edges and the stone glued into place. Finish can then be applied. I normally wipe on a coat of Danish oil.
The second style uses the same backer plate. A square blank approx 2" X 2" X 5/16" piece is affixed using the same double sided tape. I eyeball the placement using the center hole drilled through the backer plate to center the blank.
The front face of the pendant is then rounded over to a mild dome shape. I normally do this with the 3/8" spindle gouge and a 1/2" bowl gouge. The bowl gouge is used to remove the bulk of the material and the spindle gouge is used to refine the shape and to clean up the outside edge.
The backer plate is then moved off center and a through hole is turned. Move it to an additional off center hole and turn a recess for the stone inlay. (not shown).
Remove it from the backer plate (I like to use a 1" wide chisel to get under the edge and gently pry it loose). Sand the edges, glue in the inlay, and apply a finish.